Tuesday, February 21, 2012
Monday, February 20, 2012
I'm updating the blog to add images, and to fill in the blank spaces with at least notes on where we were and what we did. I'm trying to fudge Blogger, which won't let me order the entries, to keep things in reverse date order. The first week (Buenos Aires) is now filled in. Of course, it's toward the end of the blog. I should have this completed this week.
Friday, February 17, 2012
Friday, February 17
I arrived home yesterday having traveled more than 8,400 miles from Puerto Varas, Chile to Olympia in four days and in four flights (Puerto Montt to Santiago to Toronto to Denver to Seattle), and with car rides on each end.
We had a little over a day in Santiago and the city grew on me. On Monday, our initial encounter was with a hotel reservation in a place that we realized, after we arrived, would not work. On a noisy major boulevard, up three flights of stairs, and no air conditioning in 90 degree heat. It cost, but within an hour we found another place on a side street, with elevators, and with air conditioning.
Then we spent a couple of hours walking. First to the Plaza de Armas, the central square, dating from the city's sixteenth century founding and fronted by the cathedral.
Our route took us along a main shopping street, Calle Huérfanos, pedestrian only like many streets in the area and lined with large shopping arcades (or gallerias) with all kinds of stores and a variety of goods that would make American shopping malls and big box stores seem stunted. Along the way we picked up jugo naturales custom made from a choice of fruits that included oranges, peaches, strawberries, blueberries, pineapples, raspberries, mangoes, cherimoya (custard apples from Peru). As in Argentina fruit juice beverages (called liquados in Argentina, jugo natural in Chile, and sometimes frappe or simply jugo) are a favorite and great for the visitor on a hot summer day. (Not in the fruit mix, but delicious in Chile, is la palta [avacado]. Nothing in an American supermarket can compare.)
After a leisurely breakfast on Tuesday we walked up Huérfanos to Cerro Santa Lucia, a hill with an old fortress and views of the city.
After lunch at a sidewalk cafe and hosted by a waiter who had been an exchange student in Kentucky, we set out for the National History Museum in the Plaza de Armas. First a walk by an old Moorish style building we spotted from hour hotel building. This shows signs of earthquake damage and I think the mixture of old and new buildings in the centro is partially the result of the survival of the fittest structures.
Next to La Moneda, the presidential palace. We listened to a guide talk about Chilean history, and in particular the events of the 1970s and 1980s. Like Argentina, Chile suffered a brutal military dictatorship during this period. The guide said that his wife's grandfather was among the disappeared during the Pinochet regime which followed the 1973 coup, and deposition and death of President Salvatore Allende. I won't go into the history here, but those who were around during the 70s should remember the names Allende and Pinochet. For a refresher and for those who weren't, see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chilean_coup_of_1973
The history museum concentrates on Chile's history basically starting with the Spanish settlement. (pre-Columbian history is the subject of another museum which was closed while were were there). As we walked the halls viewing good, but conventional, exhibits in nice exhibit space in a restored colonial building, I wondered how the museum would treat the events of the 1970s and 1980s. The last exhibit displays newspaper headlines from 1973 along with a large display case which contains only the shattered half of Allende's glasses. The notes (which we translated) that accompany it quote the woman who found them. The morning after the coup she was awakened early by the sound of bombs and went to check on a relative who lived near La Moneda. When she passed the building, she asked a soldier what was happening. He soldier invited her inside to see Allende's body in an upstairs room. As she was leaving she noticed the glasses and took them. A policeman asked if they were Allende's, but she said, no, they were hers. It wasn't until recent years that she felt it was safe for her to give them to the nation.
I arrived home yesterday having traveled more than 8,400 miles from Puerto Varas, Chile to Olympia in four days and in four flights (Puerto Montt to Santiago to Toronto to Denver to Seattle), and with car rides on each end.
We had a little over a day in Santiago and the city grew on me. On Monday, our initial encounter was with a hotel reservation in a place that we realized, after we arrived, would not work. On a noisy major boulevard, up three flights of stairs, and no air conditioning in 90 degree heat. It cost, but within an hour we found another place on a side street, with elevators, and with air conditioning.
Then we spent a couple of hours walking. First to the Plaza de Armas, the central square, dating from the city's sixteenth century founding and fronted by the cathedral.
Plaza de Armas
Our route took us along a main shopping street, Calle Huérfanos, pedestrian only like many streets in the area and lined with large shopping arcades (or gallerias) with all kinds of stores and a variety of goods that would make American shopping malls and big box stores seem stunted. Along the way we picked up jugo naturales custom made from a choice of fruits that included oranges, peaches, strawberries, blueberries, pineapples, raspberries, mangoes, cherimoya (custard apples from Peru). As in Argentina fruit juice beverages (called liquados in Argentina, jugo natural in Chile, and sometimes frappe or simply jugo) are a favorite and great for the visitor on a hot summer day. (Not in the fruit mix, but delicious in Chile, is la palta [avacado]. Nothing in an American supermarket can compare.)
After a leisurely breakfast on Tuesday we walked up Huérfanos to Cerro Santa Lucia, a hill with an old fortress and views of the city.
Fountain on Cerro Santa Lucia
View from Cerro Santa Lucia
After lunch at a sidewalk cafe and hosted by a waiter who had been an exchange student in Kentucky, we set out for the National History Museum in the Plaza de Armas. First a walk by an old Moorish style building we spotted from hour hotel building. This shows signs of earthquake damage and I think the mixture of old and new buildings in the centro is partially the result of the survival of the fittest structures.
Old building with Moorish architecture in central Santago
Next to La Moneda, the presidential palace. We listened to a guide talk about Chilean history, and in particular the events of the 1970s and 1980s. Like Argentina, Chile suffered a brutal military dictatorship during this period. The guide said that his wife's grandfather was among the disappeared during the Pinochet regime which followed the 1973 coup, and deposition and death of President Salvatore Allende. I won't go into the history here, but those who were around during the 70s should remember the names Allende and Pinochet. For a refresher and for those who weren't, see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chilean_coup_of_1973
La Moneda
Tuesday, February 14, 2012
Tuesday, February 14
We are in Santiago with a day to see the city before a 9:45 pm flight to Toronto (and on to Denver tomorrow morning). I have a few minutes here on a hotel PC before we have to check out. We spent the past six days camping mostly and exploring national parks in the mountain and lake region in the northern part of Chilean Patagonia. Several of the volcanoes are active. We´re enjoying summer weather with fresh strawberries for breakfast this morning. I´ll detail our recent itinerary when I get to Boulder or Olympia.
Monday, February 13
Flew from Puerto Montt to Santiago. Had an end of trip dinner at Oceano Pacifico Restaurante - an interesting theme restaurant with an allegedly real whale's skeleton hanging from the ceiling.
Sunday, February 12
Drove to Puerto Varas, rented a cabaña (cabin) and drove the south shore of Lago Llanquihue for a close up view of Volcán Osorno. Arrived too late to hike, however.
Saturday, February 11
Hiked in Parque Nacional Villarica
Friday, February 10
Afternoon, drove to Lican Ray and camped on Lago Calafquén.
We are in Santiago with a day to see the city before a 9:45 pm flight to Toronto (and on to Denver tomorrow morning). I have a few minutes here on a hotel PC before we have to check out. We spent the past six days camping mostly and exploring national parks in the mountain and lake region in the northern part of Chilean Patagonia. Several of the volcanoes are active. We´re enjoying summer weather with fresh strawberries for breakfast this morning. I´ll detail our recent itinerary when I get to Boulder or Olympia.
Monday, February 13
Flew from Puerto Montt to Santiago. Had an end of trip dinner at Oceano Pacifico Restaurante - an interesting theme restaurant with an allegedly real whale's skeleton hanging from the ceiling.
Sunday, February 12
Drove to Puerto Varas, rented a cabaña (cabin) and drove the south shore of Lago Llanquihue for a close up view of Volcán Osorno. Arrived too late to hike, however.
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| Volcán Osorno |
Saturday, February 11
Hiked in Parque Nacional Villarica
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| Southern beech forest in Parque Nacional Villarica |
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| In camp at Lican Ray |
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Volcán Villarica from Lican Ray |
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Sunrise on Volcán Llaima from the campground road |
Morning, hiked in mixed araucaria and southern beech forest.
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| Araucaria forest |
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| Lago Calafquén |
Thursday, February 9, 2012
Thursday, February 9
Wednesday, February 8
After spending the night in a cabin in Puerto Varas, we set out to explore the volcanic region. That night we camped near the town of Las Laureles.
Tuesday, February 7
We flew from Punta Arenas to Puerto Montt, about 800 miles north, rented a car and drove to Puerto Varas a resort town in the lake region. We had window seats on the airplane. It was cloudy the entire flight except for an opening over Torres del Paine.
Monday, February 6
While John was recuperating at the Estancia, Laura and I drove to a forest reserve (Reserva Nacional Laguna Parrillar) southwest of town and walked in the southern beech forest there in the morning.
In the afternoon we walked Punta Arenas.
We are making a quick stop in Cunco, Chile. Here on Google Maps:
http://maps.google.cl/maps?hl=
A small town but it has fast Internet.
Tuesday night we were in Puerto Varas (in the Chilean lake district). We are working our way up into the Andes and plan to be in one of the national parks tonight. We camped last night and will camp the next three nights.
It is comfortably warm and fresh fruit including peaches, raspberries and blueberries are plentiful. In the distance are the conical peaks of stratoform volcanoes (the look like Fujiyama). I am looking forward to getting up higher.
Postscript: On Thursday we drove to Parque Nacional Conguillo and camped just outside the park. |
| Volcán Llaima (in Conguillo) from Cunco |
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| Road into Conguillo |
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| Araucaria |
Wednesday, February 8
After spending the night in a cabin in Puerto Varas, we set out to explore the volcanic region. That night we camped near the town of Las Laureles.
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| Puerto Varas |
Tuesday, February 7
We flew from Punta Arenas to Puerto Montt, about 800 miles north, rented a car and drove to Puerto Varas a resort town in the lake region. We had window seats on the airplane. It was cloudy the entire flight except for an opening over Torres del Paine.
Monday, February 6
While John was recuperating at the Estancia, Laura and I drove to a forest reserve (Reserva Nacional Laguna Parrillar) southwest of town and walked in the southern beech forest there in the morning.
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| Walking in the reserve |
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| Wine selection for lunch |
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| Punta Arenas Municipal Cemetery |
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| Punta Arenas |
Sunday, February 5, 2012
Sunday, February 5, 2012
Punta Arenas - John is a bit under the weather so we cut out the trip to Tierra del Fuego and are now back at La Estancia hostel in Punta Arenas.
Today Laura and I drove north a ways and took a ferry to Riesco Island, as I understand it, designated a wildlife refuge.
However, a mining company owns the mineral rights and has opened a large strip mine. A large coal field extends from here into Argentina. On the island, all of the estansias (farms and ranches) appear abandoned, apparently bought out by the coal company.
A spectacular trip though on a dirt road hugging the coast in winds as strong as I have ever encountered.
Saw two adult pairs of black necked swans and three cygnets, plus many rheas, geese, oystercatchers, and many other birds we could not identify.
We cooked dinner in the hostel tonight. I had expected to miss the Super Bowl - not a big deal to me - but an Aussie staying here had it on the TV just outside the kitchen. It never occurred to me that the game would be broadcast here, but of course ESPN is everywhere So I have been watching while helping cook and doing the dishes. The half-time show is over. Time for bed.
Punta Arenas - John is a bit under the weather so we cut out the trip to Tierra del Fuego and are now back at La Estancia hostel in Punta Arenas.
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| La Estancia - simple, but haimish. |
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| Isla Riesco ferry at the dock. |
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| Abandoned estancia |
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| Coastal road on Riesco |
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| Windy |
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| Rhea along road to the ferry |
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| Black necked swans with cygnets |
We cooked dinner in the hostel tonight. I had expected to miss the Super Bowl - not a big deal to me - but an Aussie staying here had it on the TV just outside the kitchen. It never occurred to me that the game would be broadcast here, but of course ESPN is everywhere So I have been watching while helping cook and doing the dishes. The half-time show is over. Time for bed.
Saturday, February 4, 2012
Saturday, February 4, 2012
Just a quick note: We´re in a hostel (owned and operated by an ex-pat named Bill from Salem, Oregon) in Puerto Natales where we stayed last night and the Internet is pretty slow here.
After two days (three nights) at Torres del Paine, we drove here yesterday and are on our way to Tierra del Fuego today. Needless to say,Torres is spectacular. Wednesday, Laura hiked up a steep trail in one of the valleys in the park. In places the wind seemed strong enough to blow you off the trail. Thursday we drove through the park to Lago Gray and took a boat to a glacier at one end of the lake. When we reached the glacier, the captain slowed the boat and the crew broke out pisco sours and whiskeys for us tourists.
Have seen guanacos, flamingos, rheas and one condor. Also, on the way to the park we visited a colony of Magellanic penguins. This involved driving across a narrow place between the Strait of Magellan and the Pacific where the penguins were, essentially crossing the continent in less than 30 miles.
Today we´ll drive to a place where we can take a ferry to Tierra del Fuego.
Postscript:
In reality, we got to the ferry line, waited for an hour, turned around
and returned to Punta Arenas. John was coming down with a cold (which
fortunately neither Laura nor I caught). Tierra del Fuego will have to
wait.
Friday, February 3
Drive from Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales:
Thursday, February 2
Drive to Lago Grey and boat ride on the lake to see the Grey Glacier:
The boat trip involved a short bus ride from the Hotel Lago Grey, a walk through woods, across a suspension bridge (Galloping Gertie in the wind) over a river, and walk over dry lake bed to the dock. Because water levels are too low, the passengers are then ferried to the boat.
Wednesday, February 1
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| Along the Strait of Magellan |
Friday, February 3
Drive from Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales:
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| Farewell to Torres del Paine |
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| Flamingos on Lago Armaga |
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| Puerto Natales |
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| Puerto Natales waterfront |
Thursday, February 2
Drive to Lago Grey and boat ride on the lake to see the Grey Glacier:
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| View from the park road |
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| The road along Lago Pehoe (pronounced pay-way) |
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| Flag of the Magallanes and Antarctica Chilean Region |
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| When the boat reaches the glacier, the crew serves pisco sours and whiskeys. |
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| Grey Glacier |
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| Grey Glacier |
Wednesday, February 1
Day hike from Refugio Torre Central (a hostel with dormitory style accommodations and mediocre food, our lodging place) into Rio Ascensio valley: It's warm, probably around 70 F at the lodge when we return, but in the valley it's windy and cool, and the rain is coming in.
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| View back toward Lago Nordenskjöld |
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| Looking up the valley |
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| View from Refugio Torre Central |
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